Sunday, August 28, 2011

Singing To the Bones

If you’ve been following my blog from the beginning, you know that I started by talking about clearing the launch pad:  letting go of nearly everything in my life that gave me strength and identity. Losing or letting go of my familiar comforts - home, doggies, horse, garden, people I thought were friends, the person I thought I’d spend my life with, even my car and some possessions - left me feeling both bereft and more than a little helpless.  During this same time, important people died, moved away or grew ill.  Coming to Italy separated me from all the remaining external comforts and distractions:  family, friends, even work.  In many ways, I’ve been left with a sense of impermanence, a growing suspicion that there’s nothing I can count on, and the paralyzing fear that I can no longer trust myself.

Enter the wisdom of Clarissa Pinkola Estes, a renowned Jungian therapist and cantadora, who tells the story of La Loba, the bone woman, who searches for the bones of wolves in the desert and sings them back to life.  First she gathers the bones and carefully, carefully reassembles them.  Then she sings once and the bones become covered in flesh.  She sings again and the flesh is covered in fur, and again for the newly enlivened wolf to breathe its first breath, leap up, and run again into the desert, speeding toward the river in great bounding strides.  There, as the story goes, as it runs it transforms into a newly impassioned woman, magical in her instinct and untamed spirit.  Estes teaches that for those of us who have been domesticated, separated from our strength, and deadened to our passions, it is sometimes necessary to be boiled to the bone and enter the desert of the soul.  There, if we are not afraid to wait for her, we can be found by La Loba and be sung back to life.  Estes teaches that an instinctive woman will do just that – drive herself to be the bones of who she is, find the pieces of herself that are permanent and unchangeable, enter the desert of her soul and slowly become re-enfleshed.  It’s no joke and it’s not hyperbole:  this process has often felt like a long, slow scalding that somehow I am responsible for, but now I see a deeper wisdom at work and I’m starting to fall in love with it.

Suddenly, instead of being paralyzed and bereft, I realize I am a woman cradling the bones of her soul and singing.

Here in Italy, other traditions tell the story of the bones.  It’s not so rare here to find a reliquary:  a place where the bones of someone anointed by God, usually a saint, have been preserved.  As I write I’m sitting next to the church where Saint Catherine’s finger and head are kept.  I’m looking across the panorama of the city to the Duomo, where digits, thigh bones and arms of other saints are preserved in glass cases for everyone to see – and to remember the miracles that define sainthood.  Many people find them grisly or even absurd, but what could be more sacred than once-living reminders of the unchanging and the miraculous?  Our bones are, in the words of Geneen Roth, “what remains when everything that has been lost is gone and everything that can die is dead.”  And it’s our bones that give us strength to stand again.

The bones aren’t imaginary; I’m learning to love them in practical as well as personal terms.  I’m learning that my writing gives me strength, that it’s okay to rest when I need it, and that I don’t have to be perfect or give up when I’m not.  I’m learning to be proactive in asking for help.  I’m finding ways to do what I love without over scheduling myself.  I’m remembering how much I love to walk and how much I love to push my body hard.  I’m remembering how much I love to play.  I'm learning that grief comes in waves but that I can survive them.  I’m learning to anticipate the peace that only comes after a good, long cry.  Sometimes I’m delighted by the cacophony of bells and screaming babies and laughing and drums that is Sunday morning in Siena – and sometimes I am delighted by the silence of my room.  I’m finding that I have no idea how to express what I recognize as a simmering rage inside me, an anger born in the knowledge that my complicity is no excuse for others to have consciously contributed to my pain.  I’ve promised myself that I will no longer participate in my own degradation.  I’m learning to find companionship that’s undemanding or just plain fun…and that people like me just for me.  I’m learning not to panic when I feel completely lost.  I’m learning that there are wise women (and men) everywhere and that more than anything, I want to be one of them.  I'm learning that sometimes, I just don't know how to move on.

Most important of all, I am discovering that there is something left of me that is precious and indestructible.  I have a long, long song to hear before I can leap up and run, but I’m gaining a sense of my ability to build a life without the fear that I will be destroyed by its loss.  I’m gaining a sense that I can trust myself to find what I need or patiently wait in the desert.  I’m becoming hopeful that someday I won’t have to perform the role of Anna anymore because I love my bones and won’t betray them.  I’m learning to trust my instincts.  In short, I’m re-learning to live my life as my life.  I just hope I can remember how when I'm re-entering the pressures of life back home - but I'm learning not to, as my mother would say, "borrow trouble." And I'm determined that it's possible to build the kind of life I want to lead, even there, even if it's not popular.

A good Sunday to you all.

Anna

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Dear House Mates,


Since I’ll be out of the house again as much as possible all day, I wanted to leave you this little note.  I know I’ve said some of this in person, but sometimes a letter means so much more.  Now we will all have memories to treasure.

Let me start by saying how much I appreciate your efforts to keep the kitchen clean.  It’s so much nicer to see your dishes piled next to the sink instead of left in it. Tonight I noticed your new cleaning strategy at the end of a meal; it’s so original.  I can say it has never occurred to me to lift my bowl and run my tongue around it when I’m finished eating.  In fact, I’ve never lapped at my plate either.  What an ingenious idea.  I hope you don’t mind that I am retaining my own methods with the set of dishes I keep in my room.

And those coffee grounds you poured on the cabinet just after Veronica finished cleaning? They go great with the breadcrumbs: together they reflect so many pretty colors in the blade of the knife you left next to your dirty cutting board and empty water bottles.  Thank you for moving so quickly when the cleaning was finished. We wouldn’t want the house not to feel lived in.

Listen, ever since I heard about the “little incident” with the gas five years ago, I’ve been reconsidering your continual assessment of the safety of leaving it on.  On the one hand, I wonder what the landlord could possibly know that you don’t - but on the other, the thought of dying in an explosion makes me a little nervous.  Maybe we could compromise and you could turn it off the first three or four times you use it in a day and I will turn it off after that.  Or I could just keep doing it for you.  Let me know which you prefer.

I know it’s great to be a couple traveling together in Italy, but gosh you must be suffering in this heat.  It was terrible the other morning when you poor things had to sleep with your door propped wide open.  On my way back from the bathroom I couldn’t help but notice that those are some beautiful pairs of underwear you’ve got there.  I've really never seen anything like it, even looking away as quickly as I did.  I’m so glad you bought a fan; now we will all be feeling better.

I could go on and on, there are so many things I will remember you for: the sight of the unscrubbed evidence in the toilet, the sound of your belches, the care with which you slam the cabinet doors, the way you finish studying and leave your books spread across the table…Oh!  

Just five more weeks until you go.  Unbelievable.

Anna

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Grammar, a bit of vocabulary, and free assertiveness training

Hi All,

Sorry for my delay in writing, but I've down with a terrible bout of grammar sickness.  In class we have started several verb tenses, a series of pronouns and combined pronouns, and many, many other lessons related to grammar.  Some days my head feels like it has been injected with a string of unconnected words intended to give me a lasting headache...then suddenly, after a week or two, it all makes sense!  Sort of.

Luckily, I am never without help.  I discovered very quickly that many people here know their grammar and take it upon themselves to make sure I know mine.  My teacher says it reflects an almost universal love of the language.  At a lecture I attended recently (in Italian, so I may not be exactly right), I found out that students here have to study Latin for at least five years in order to truly understand the Italian language...and it shows.  I made a mistake ordering dinner the other night and the owner of the restaurant stopped me, corrected my grammar and reminded me "in the present tense, third person singular is always...!"  How often would that happen in the US?

Meanwhile, I am able to understand a lot more.  People in the shops recognize me now and automatically speak more slowly, but always in Italian instead of switching to English (I always wonder if they are thinking, "stupid American, she'll never get this").  The ubiquitous phrase "piano, piano" (slowly, slowly) is about to kill me - except that everyone says it so kindly, usually with the addition of "word for word, day by day, with calm."  And several people have complimented me in the last week on the improvements I've made...according to the director of the school, my accent has improved; according to my landlord, my past tense has improved; according to the man in the coffee shop, my conversation skills have improved.  So maybe all this grammar will pay off!

The key is conversation.  I try to listen to as much Italian as possible - I watch the news (they speak more slowly than regular TV), attend lectures at the school, listen to children on the playground, and even went to see the dubbed version of Harry Potter.  But speaking is the real challenge...How do I find someone to talk to unless I'm shopping or eating (and my budget dictates that I do most of my eating at home)?  It's a little strange to walk around talking to myself, but then, it's not THAT different from what I do at home.

I'm hoping for new roommates that a) aren't too strange and b) want to speak Italian.  And for an Italian friend.  That would be the best for lots of reasons.  With everyone coming and going from the school, it would be nice to know someone who lives here full time.  I've met one or two "gentlemen" interested in spending time talking, but talking is never what they are really thinking about.  Divorced American women have a reputation that just doesn't apply to me.  Banking on it, the guy who owns the pizza place near the house grabbed me by the shoulder and face when I walked in one day and tried to kiss me.  I guess he thought all the times I said no to going out really meant I wanted to be taken by force...ugh.  Not to worry, my response was clear enough that when I come down the street now, he runs into the store and hides.  And while other men have been suggestive, they have backed right off when I say no.*  That sort of problem is good assertiveness practice and an unexpected part of that "fierce" I am working toward.  It's also helping me learn some new words:  in addition to the traditional "vai via" (go away), I've recently learned "sparisci," which means get lost.  So a little new vocabulary in addition to the grammar.  And some laughs to share with other women.

Anyway, new friends are coming, I'm sure.  Until then, I'm listening away and negotiating the tricky grammatical waters.  I'm also learning a lot about enjoying my own company.  I don't get a lot of time to do that back home, so it's good.  It's not like I don't have anything to think about.  Today we started the trapassotto prossimo.  Wish me luck.

Ciao, ciao.

*In the interest of full disclosure and cultural awareness, this is overt sexual suggestion I'm objecting to as opposed to the typical everyday flirting that many men here engage in with every woman they talk to.  I kind of hate to admit that the day-to-day is kind of nice even though it makes the feminist in me cringe.  It's hard to object to being told I'm beautiful, or hard not to laugh when I order water and I'm asked "with" or "without", which normally means with or without gas, and the guy says, "no, with or without a kiss?"  I'm also often mentally rolling my eyes.  As my friend says, you brush those kinds of things off like you brush off a fly... while also recognizing that it feels good to be visible, too.